25-01-2020, 12:03 PM
De vraag is hier al meermaals gesteld. Zelf drink ik vele Bourgognes graag jong, op het piepjonge fruit, maar dat is misschien beroepsmisvorming. Ik geniet zeer zeker ook van een mooi gerijpte Bourgogne van 15 of 20 jaar oud.
Recent publiceerde William Kelley, de nieuwe Bourgogne recensent bij TWA, zijn mening over jaargang 2017, een door mij hier reeds meermaals bejubeld jaar.
En ik wil jullie zijn mening niet onthouden:
The 2017 Vintage Revisited From Bottle
I wrote last year that Burgundy’s 2017 vintage yielded a large crop of supple, charming and expressive reds, characterized by melting tannins and comparatively low acidities and a smaller harvest of serious whites that are concentrated, classically balanced and beautifully defined by site. Revisiting the 2017s extensively from bottle during my two and a half months tasting at many of the region’s best addresses, I was almost universally favorably impressed by the wines’ evolution.
The 2017 red Burgundies have evolved very positively with continued élevage, and the wines met or surpassed the most optimistic expectations I formed from barrel. While there is no question that 2017 is a less-concentrated red Burgundy vintage than 2015, 2016 or 2018, the best producers’ wines were always characterized by incredible grace and succulence, and they have picked up additional depth and site-driven complexity with further time in barrel and tank before bottling. Certainly, this is a vintage that is likely to be at its best at age 20 or 30—as opposed to age 50 or 60—but I suspect that many consumers will regard this as more of a virtue than a fault. Since these wines show no signs of shutting down, they are likely to offer very broad drinking windows. In short, 2017 produced immensely pleasurable red Burgundies, and I am very happy to have bought a wide selection from my favorite producers for my own cellar. Given the abundant harvest and—for consumers based in the United States—the prospect of tariffs impacting the pricing of the 2018 vintage, the best 2017 red Burgundies represent an increasingly attractive proposition in the marketplace. I wrote last year that the vintage is reminiscent of a riper, more concentrated version of the 2007 vintage or a cleaner, purer version of the 2000 vintage, but the more I taste the wines from bottle, the more the best 2017 reds also seem to evoke the graceful balance and pure fruit of the best 1985 red Burgundies.
Dus ja, we drinken onze Bourgognes (véél) te jong, of wat vinden jullie?
Recent publiceerde William Kelley, de nieuwe Bourgogne recensent bij TWA, zijn mening over jaargang 2017, een door mij hier reeds meermaals bejubeld jaar.
En ik wil jullie zijn mening niet onthouden:
The 2017 Vintage Revisited From Bottle
I wrote last year that Burgundy’s 2017 vintage yielded a large crop of supple, charming and expressive reds, characterized by melting tannins and comparatively low acidities and a smaller harvest of serious whites that are concentrated, classically balanced and beautifully defined by site. Revisiting the 2017s extensively from bottle during my two and a half months tasting at many of the region’s best addresses, I was almost universally favorably impressed by the wines’ evolution.
The 2017 red Burgundies have evolved very positively with continued élevage, and the wines met or surpassed the most optimistic expectations I formed from barrel. While there is no question that 2017 is a less-concentrated red Burgundy vintage than 2015, 2016 or 2018, the best producers’ wines were always characterized by incredible grace and succulence, and they have picked up additional depth and site-driven complexity with further time in barrel and tank before bottling. Certainly, this is a vintage that is likely to be at its best at age 20 or 30—as opposed to age 50 or 60—but I suspect that many consumers will regard this as more of a virtue than a fault. Since these wines show no signs of shutting down, they are likely to offer very broad drinking windows. In short, 2017 produced immensely pleasurable red Burgundies, and I am very happy to have bought a wide selection from my favorite producers for my own cellar. Given the abundant harvest and—for consumers based in the United States—the prospect of tariffs impacting the pricing of the 2018 vintage, the best 2017 red Burgundies represent an increasingly attractive proposition in the marketplace. I wrote last year that the vintage is reminiscent of a riper, more concentrated version of the 2007 vintage or a cleaner, purer version of the 2000 vintage, but the more I taste the wines from bottle, the more the best 2017 reds also seem to evoke the graceful balance and pure fruit of the best 1985 red Burgundies.
Dus ja, we drinken onze Bourgognes (véél) te jong, of wat vinden jullie?
